When you think of the month of January, starting to plant your vegetables is probably not the first thing that comes to your mind. If you live in the southern or west coast of the United States, you should be okay to plant some vegetables, but make sure to be aware of any impending frosts so you can make the necessary arrangements. If you are unsure of how your weather is going to be during January, a small potted vegetable patch by a sunny window works perfectly.

Vegetables to Plant in January

Tomatoes and peppers are perfect to plant indoors this January. They are super easy to grow and they can be transported outside when it gets warmer. It takes about 6-8 weeks for them to mature, so by that time it should be warm enough for them to take root in your backyard! Another vegetable that you can start this month is onion. If you’re in a warmer zone, plant now indoors. They should be matured and can be transported outside in only two months. Make sure that if you’ll be keeping your onions inside to cut the tops off so they only grow to about three inches instead of their normal 5-6 inches.

For outdoors lovers, there is a vegetable you can plant this earlier in the year that won’t die outright! The Broad Bean is a hardy bean that is able to subsist in less than warm temperatures. The Broad Bean grows easily and steadily and will be ready for harvesting early this year if you plant in late January. If you live in a place that doesn’t get a lot of freezes, this vegetable will thrive in your environment and you can plant it as your first vegetable of the year! Did you know how easy it is to grow mushrooms? If you’re a fan of mushrooms and love to garden all year long, mushrooms are extremely easy to grow in the winter months and grow quickly.

January is the perfect time to start planning for your spring and summer vegetables and flowers that you will be planting. Get out the gardening catalog and plan which seeds you’ll be purchasing this year in advance so you’ll be ready to “sow” when the spring comes around!

Now that you know which vegetables to plant in January, what’s your pick?

Image: iStockPhoto

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When winter begins to turn to spring, and you cannot wait to get into your garden, pruning is a good place to start. Pruning keeps plants healthy and gets rid of damaged, diseased branches and limbs, for new, healthy growth. Keep in mind, though, that not all plants should be pruned early. Many flowering trees and shrubs set their buds in the fall, and pruning in early spring could mean less blossoms. This is a common mistake made by new gardeners, so use this list to determine when your flowering trees and shrubs should be pruned for the most blossoms in spring.

Trees and Shrubs That Should be Pruned After Blooming (Late Spring)

• Azalea (Rhododendron species)
• Beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis)
• Bridal Wreath Spirea (Spirea x vanhouttei)
• Flowering Crabapple (Malus species and cultivars)
• Forsythia (forsythia x intermedia)
• Hawthorn (Crataegus species and cultivars)
• Hydrangea, Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
• Magnolia (Magnolia species and cultivars)
• Mockorange (Philadelphus coronarius)
• Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
• Rhododendron (Rhododendron species)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier x grandiflora)
• Slender Deutzia (deutzia gracilis)
• Weigela (Weigela florida)

Trees and Shrubs That Should be Pruned While Dormant (Late Winter/Early Spring)

• Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana)
• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia Davidii)
• Crape Myrtel (Lagerstroemia indica)
• Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)
• Flowering Plum (Prunus blireana)
• Glossy Abelia (Abelia x grandiflora)
• Golden Rain Tree (Koelreuteria paniculata)
• Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissiam)
• Hydrangea, Peegee (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’)
• Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa)
• Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) (Spirea japonica))
• Wisteria (Wistera species)

Sometimes, it is easier to prune trees and shrubs when there are no leaves on the branches. It is easier to see the shape of the plant when the branches are not covered in leaves, so if your plants are in need of a good shaping, it might be worth it to sacrifice some would-be blossoms to revitalize the plant with an early spring pruning.

General Pruning Guidelines

1. Prune plants while they are still young and maintain a regular pruning schedule to avoid corrective pruning later.
2. Determine the reason for pruning your trees and shrubs and know what your final goal is before your start.
3. Prune at the right time for the type of plants you have.
4. Remove any damaged or diseased branches and limbs as soon as possible. If removing diseased branches, be sure to clean pruning tools between each cut by dipping the blades in rubbing alcohol or bleach.
5. Prune crossovers, suckers, sprouts or low-hanging branches as soon as possible to avoid weak spots in the plant.
6. Clean and oil pruning tools when finished pruning so they don’t rust.

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When pruning fir trees, keeping the old adage “Less is more” in mind will help you determine how much to prune to avoid cutting too much. Fir trees, such as evergreens, do well with little to no maintenance, and actually seem to thrive on neglect. They have evolved in regions that receive little rainfall, have poor soil conditions or experience extreme temperatures and are considered a hardy, rugged plant. A little light pruning is all that is needed to keep these trees healthy and beautiful.   [photo via flickr]

Fir trees are unforgiving when it comes to pruning. They do not re-grow their limbs and branches like other trees, so determining the reason for pruning and where to prune them ahead of time and only cutting once is key. Also important is timing. Fir trees should be pruned in late winter to early spring to avoid disturbing new growth.

Why Prune a Fir Tree?

There really is only three reasons why you should even think about pruning a fir tree.

Form

Many people plant fir trees for their shape. The pyramidal form is visually pleasing, takes up less space, and adds a nice constant green to a garden landscape. In addition, because fir trees have a dominant, single leader branch, the tree usually retains its shape with no pruning. Occasionally, the tree will form two dominant leader branches and will need pruning to eliminate an odd-shaped, weak tree.

Size Control

Ideally, if you have planted a fir tree, you have allowed enough room for growth and controlling its size will not be an issue. Unfortunately, many gardeners have found themselves in a position where the tree has grown faster than anticipated and needs pruning to keep it in check. This type of pruning should be done sparingly, and only if absolutely necessary.

Health

Just like any other tree, there will be dead, diseased or damaged branches that need to be trimmed away. Pruning of this nature should be done anytime there is a need to maintain the overall health of the tree. Branches and limbs that cross each other and rub together should be removed as well because injuries that result from rubbing can be entry points for disease. Limbs that appear weak because of poor attachment need to be removed, too.

Tips for Pruning Fir Trees

• Prune limbs larger than a pencil with a handsaw and smaller limbs with pruning shears. Make sure your tools are super sharp to avoid damaging the trees.
• Avoid pruning fir trees in hot weather.
• Each fir tree has a dead zone. The dead zone is located along the interior of each branch where new shoots will not grow. How much you prune is dictated by the extent of the dead zone.
• Dead, diseased or damaged branches should be cut back to the closest healthy bud.
• Remove lower branches to reveal the trunk of the tree or get rid of heavy branches by cutting through the bottom of the branch first, then through the top to meet the first cut. This will make it easier to manage large branches.
• Always wear long sleeves, pants, and closed toes shoes when pruning trees. Safety glasses are a must, as well.

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If you have ever admired the beauty of a rose garden and dreamed of having one of your own, but thought it too difficult to accomplish or maintain, now is the time to get started.February is the perfect time to plant roses in many parts of the country, and having your very own rose garden is easier than you think!  [image via flickr]

The Right Time

There is a right time and a wrong time to plant roses depending on where you live in the country.

• Northeast and East coast: March through June, October and November
• North Central: April through June, October and November
• South Central: December through February
• Southwest and Pacific coast: December and January
• Pacific Northwest: January through April

Where to Begin

Roses need at least four hours of direct sunlight every day. They will not do well with less, so pick a spot with lots of sun. They also like to be moist, but not overly so. If their roots stand in wet soil for too long, they will die, so make sure soil drains well. If the area you choose stays really wet or seems terribly dry, the situation can be remedied by adding sand to help it drain or peat to help it hold moisture.

If soil conditions are just not conducive in your yard for roses, consider building a raised flowerbed. You can control the type of soil the roses are planted in and raised flowerbeds deter weed growth, which roses hate.

What Kind of Roses Should I Plant?

Roses are sold in a couple of different ways: bare root (sometimes called box roses) and container or potted roses. Bare root roses are what you usually find in garden centers or how you receive them if you have ordered them through the mail. Container roses have a better root development, but can be more expensive than bare root roses.

Container roses are easier to plant because they are simply placed in the ground at the same depth as the pot, just like most other plants. Bare root roses need to be positioned properly according to the climate in which you live. In colder regions where winters can be harsh, more of the bare root rose needs to be buried under the soil.

How to Plant Your Rose Plants

Be sure to read the tag on your rose plant before digging. It will tell you the eventual height and width of the plant once it matures. Space the plants accordingly and remember to dig the holes twice as wide and half again as deep as the plant. Always water your newly planted rose bush heavily to eliminate air pockets left from planting.

The post Promise Yourself a Rose Garden appeared first on Gracious Gardening.

You can easily extend the life of your favorite house plant or perennial by taking the roots from your potted plant outside where it can continue to grow and thrive where it should be. Follow these steps and you too can enjoy the splendors of a spring garden without spending a lot of money.  [photo via flickr]

1- Prepare your container plant for the great outdoors

Once you placed the seeds in the container, they start to germinate, and the plants begin to grow. Once the stems have leaves growing out of them, it’s time to decide which plant you’re going to place in the garden. You will obviously want to transplant the stronger plant and remove the weaker plant- simply cut it at ground level.  Move the healthier looking plant into a larger container where it can grow more. Take this plant outdoors.

2- Keep the plants in the sun

Once the frost ends and the weather becomes warmer, it’s time to take the plants outdoors where they can bask in the warm sun. To ease the transition from indoors to outdoors, you will want to slowly expose them to the sun. Start out with at least an hour everyday and gradually work up an hour more each day.

3- Fix the garden up in preparation

Before you can transfer the plants into the garden, you need to prep the garden in advance. Start by applying organic compost to twelve inches of topsoil. This will help the soil retain water, which is crucial for healthy plants.

4- Propogate the plants to the soil

When the plants have grown a bit, it’s time to transplant the plants into the garden. Gently take the plant out of the container (unless it is a biodegradable container, if that’s the case you can simply place the plant with the container into the soil). If the plant has long roots that encircle the container, you may have to gently loosen the roots for easier removal. Once you’ve properly placed the plant into the soil, cover the surrounding area with more soil.

5- Continue to care for your plants

The adventure doesn’t stop there! You’ll need to make sure the plants are watered at least every other day. Remember to check on the plant’s water level before adding more water: you do not want to kill the plant. As the plant continues to grow, you can cut back on the amount you water to about once or twice a week. Finally yet importantly, you should cover up the ground surrounding your plant with mulch. This will help retain natural moisture and protect the plant from soil erosion.

The post It Lives! How To Take Root Trimmings From The House To Outside appeared first on Gracious Gardening.

Most serious gardeners will try anything they can to protect and improve their gardening experience. Unfortunately, there are times when you may need a little extra help when it comes to protecting your plants, especially fragile plants. Climatic conditions such as severe cold, frost, and wind can easily damage most plants. The good news is that there are many ways and methods to protect your outdoor plants and garden from problematic weather changes. Here is just a sampling of ideas on how you can save your garden.   [photo via flickr]

1- Row Covers provide an ideal solution for protecting garden plants from pests, insects, and animals. There are essentially two types of row covers: fabric and plastic. Fabric row covers are great for protecting plants while allowing rain inside and heat outside thanks to the perforated holes. Plastic covers are also good, but they don’t provide the aforementioned benefits. Even perforated plastic covers don’t provide the same adequate benefits a fabric cover would. Remember that not all row covers are the same and you may need a thicker one to protect your plants from the winter frost. Before you purchase a heavy row cover, be sure to check the levels of frost protection and light access. The heavier the blanket, the higher the frost protection and the lower the light access. You could also opt for a lighter blanket that allows the plants to receive more light.

2-Mulching the garden is another smart way to protect your plants. Apply two to four inches of organic mulch to your garden or flower beds to protect the plants from colder temperatures. It’s best to mulch in late fall or early winter, but it’s really never too late to mulch. You can make your own organic mulch with cardboard, leaves, pinecones, or newspaper. Remember to remove the mulch before spring planting season begins.

3- If most or all of your plants are in pots, it might be a good idea to bring them in from the cold. If you do this, make sure you keep the plants in warm rooms where they will receive enough sunlight. If you want to bring in garden plants for the season, you may want to re-root them in new pots and keep them inside where they’ll remain warm.

4- If you have the money and the space in your backyard, you might want to build a greenhouse. A greenhouse provides a safe haven for plants year round. If you do not have a lot of room, a smaller cold frame should suffice. Makes sure that whatever structure you build, it features windows to enable ventilation.

The post Row Covers and Other Ways To Protect Fragile Plants appeared first on Gracious Gardening.

Although not a regularity, the January thaw happens almost every year, and most parts of the country enjoy a slight rise in temperatures that last about a week before dipping back down again for the arrival of February. During this time, temperatures rise on average about ten degrees from the week before, making it an optimal time for more southerly areas to begin planting.  [flower pic via freedigitalphotos]

What Regions Can Start Planting?

Some areas of the country experience below freezing temperatures all winter long, and even with the January thaw, are still too cold for planting. The more southerly regions where temperatures hover around freezing or are a few degrees warmer throughout the winter months can take full advantage of the January thaw to get their gardens started.

[image via  MotherEarthNews]

 Looking at the map above, the Gulf Coast and Southern Interior regions are optimal areas for January planting. The coast of the Southwest also enjoys a warmer winter and with the January thaw, can get a head start on planting as well. Aside from planting new crops or flowers, these areas may begin to see new growth of already established plants during this time.

What to Plant

One of the easiest and hardiest plants to sow during the January thaw is bulbs. If you’ve never planted bulbs before, it is easy to get hooked. The optimal time to plant bulbs is in the fall of the previous year, but they can be planted as early as mid-August and as late as the end of January.

When planting bulbs in January, keep in mind they may not bloom when spring comes because they have not established themselves yet. If the bulbs you are planting are ones that bloom in the summer, you may get lucky and see their beautiful color the first year. The weather in your area plays a big role in determining when and if your newly planted bulbs produce blooms the first year or not.

Other Things to Plant During the January Thaw

Besides planting bulbs, the Gulf Coast region is warm enough during the January thaw to allow for planting of some vegetables and trees, too. Some things you may want to sow include:

• Potatoes
• Rhubarb
• Asparagus
• Horseradish
• Swiss chard
• Lettuces
• Spinach
• Cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, kale Brussels sprouts, etc.)
• Iceland poppies
• Violas
• Pansies
• Toadflax
• Gerbera daisies
• Fruit trees
• Flowering trees (weeping cherry, dogwood, etc.)

Take advantage of the January thaw so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor come springtime.

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February leaves us with just a month left to gear up for spring gardening, so now is the ideal time to start mulching. If you are a seasoned gardener, you already know that the benefits of mulching are numerous. It not only helps soil retain moisture but it also works as a compost that feeds the garden, reduces extra waste, helps lower soil erosion, and prevents weeds from growing. Why mulch during the middle of winter? If you have not already mulched your garden last fall, you will want to do it now before spring weather blossoms. Moreover, mulching during the coldest time of the year can protect your perennials from the cold climate.  Read on to find out how to successfully start mulching your garden this month.  [photo via flickr]

1)  Apply enough mulch over your garden, but do not overdo it.

Since mulching in the winter is primarily done to protect the plants from the harsh winter climate, it is best to use your discretion as to how much mulch you should use. Ideally, you will place enough mulch to blanket the crops. If you are trying to protect surface roots and crowns, you may want to apply two to three inches of mulch around the base. If you have a rose garden, you may want to use more mulch – enough to build a pyramid-like shape.

2) Remember to remove the weeds before you apply mulch.

You should always remove any weeds from the ground before you start your mulch application. This is crucial, as you do not want to nurture the weeds, which are also technically plants. The good news is that once you have applies the mulch, you should see less weeds. Removing weeds should not be hard to do, but no matter which weed removal method you try, you should opt for organic weed removal. Try undercutting the roots with garden tool like a digging tool. Dig deep into the soil and you should be able to pull the weeds up for remov

The post Merry Mulching In February! appeared first on Gracious Gardening.

February is a good time to begin planting your garden. Be it vegetable or flower, many of the warmer regions around the country can take advantage of early planting at the end of winter. Proper organization and planning ensures you will have plenty of room left to sow your spring plants right alongside the ones you plant in February.   [photo via flickr]

Sketch a Plan

Put your garden on paper for an easy way to organize plants and keep track of the space you have left. The size of your garden depends on the land you have available, and the amount of time you are willing to spend caring for it. You won’t want to plan a huge garden that requires a lot of care if you don’t have the time to do it. Decide how big you want your garden to be and using graph paper, draw it to scale.

Decide the types of plants you would like in your garden and read planting and space requirements for each one. Draw sections or rows on your sketch to indicate where each one should go. If you are planning to include more plants that require planting in spring, be sure to include them in your drawing, too.

Need More Room?

If you are limited on space, but want to include as many vegetables as possible in your garden, opt for ones that grow vertically instead of across the ground. Pole beans produce for several months and take up very little space. Scarlet runners are another option and add a nice touch of color when they blossom. By planting vegetables of this nature, you can plan more space for something else.

By planning and organizing your garden before you start, you will have a better idea of the space needed for both your February planting and your spring planting. You will be able to include everything you wish to have in your garden and will not end up spending money on plants or seeds you may not have room for. Keep your plans from year to year so you can change what did not work the previous year, or expand your garden as space permits. You will find an organized plan makes for a much more successful garden with less effort on your part.

The post It’s February! Let’s Plan Spring! appeared first on Gracious Gardening.

Grown for its edible stalks, Asparagus is usually planted in January or February, as soon as the soil is not frozen and workable. Asparagus is a perennial vegetable with a high yield – 8 to 10 pounds or more per 100 square feet of bed space. The nice thing about planting asparagus is it keeps producing for 15 to 25 years and does not require replanting year after year.

Planting Asparagus

Asparagus is pretty low-maintenance. It is grown from one-year-old plants called “crowns”, and takes about three years from the time the crown is planted to reach full production. Since asparagus plants produce for several years, good seedbed preparation is essential. Soil should be free of trash, insects and weeds, and tilled to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Asparagus grows best in well-draining soil with a high pH level. Before planting asparagus, fertilize seedbeds with 2 to 3 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer per 20 feet of row.

Since asparagus will be in the same place for several years, choose just the right spot – a sunny one. Plant rows 4 to 6 feet apart and crowns 12 to 14 inches apart. Crowns should be planted in furrows at least 6 inches deep. Avoid planting crowns too close together because crowded plants produce small spears. Water asparagus plants often and deeply.

Caring for your Asparagus Plants

Asparagus plants require little maintenance after the first two years. The main thing to do is keep beds weed-free and till the soil with fertilizer in early spring before spears begin to grow. After the last harvest in late spring/early summer, cut back all top growth and cover with a 3-inch layer of clean straw. Water thoroughly and allow the plants to grow the rest of the season. They will develop ferny foliage that helps the roots store food and insure a good harvest next season. Once the ferny tops turn brown, and after the first hard frost, cut them off at ground level and mulch with manure.

Here is a simple recipe to make after you’ve harvested your fresh asparagus spears”

Parmesan Asparagus

Ingredients

10 fresh asparagus spears, trimmed

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

Cooking spray

1/8 teaspoon garlic salt

Directions

1.     Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (205 degrees C). Grease a baking sheet with cooking spray.

2.     Lightly coat asparagus with cooking spray; place on prepared baking sheet. Combine Parmesan cheese and garlic salt in a small bowl; set aside.

3.     Bake in preheated oven for 6 minutes; turn asparagus and continue baking until tender, about 6 minutes.

4.     Sprinkle Parmesan cheese mixture over asparagus.

This recipe from allrecipes.com yields 2 serving and is ready to eat in 20 minutes.

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